Sustainable Fashion (Style and Sustainability)

Did you know?

- A pair of jeans “manufacturing water-use” equivalent to what a person drinks in 4 years. According to Levi Strauss, 3,781 liters of water are used during the production of one pair of 501® jeans 

- The average American throws away about 81 pounds of clothing per year. 

- Most Americans are thoroughly convinced there is another person in their direct vicinity who truly needs and wants our unwanted clothes. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Charities long ago passed the point of being able to sell all of our wearable unwanted clothes. 

- While 95 % of used textiles can be recycled, 85% land in the trash

- From 1999 to 2009, U.S. post-consumer textile waste grew by 40 %.

Although fashion is a way of expression or art for many people, the industry itself is becoming more corrupt and damaging towards the environment as society progresses. Today, a majority of the rather "trendy" brands are fast fashion, whereas the eco-friendly based brands tend to have more outdated styles. This is the exact issue Etcetera Streetwear is resolving, combing both factors of sustainability and modern fashion trends to create an environmentally friendly fashion brand that connects with those who want style and sustainability.

   October is National Hispanic Heritage Month and I am a proud small business owner and member of the Hispanic Chamber of Commerce. 

   We are partnering with two Peruvian seamstresses in our new collection! and are  very excited to announce our third line that involves crafting and designing more than just tops.

  In pursuit of learning and changing to meet sustainable guidelines, we have learned that donating and recycling clothes are actually turning into waste in landfills in West Africa. To mitigate this problem, it involves holding fast fashion brands accountable and stopping them from overproducing to "meet demand". We are working hard to making our brand sustainable by using previously owned fabrics, and upcycling existing merchandise to create new trends out of gently used clothing.

A great resource that we like to learn from is the Macarthur Foundation https://www.macfound.org/. 

The Circular economy is a model of sustainability that we all aspire to achieve.  

 This season's shade is brought to you by the skepticism of G20 and COP26. 

Here is the short and sweet version of the G20: this is when the world's richest economies come together and pledge climate action, but there is few commitments. For instance, they make no reference to cutting emissions by 2050. The full article can be found here.

What is currently happening from October 31st through November 12th is the UN Climate Change Conference (COP26) in Glasgow, Scotland which is the 26th session of the Conference of the Parties.

 While it's important to acknowledge there is organized research and discussion being done it is also imperative to have a critical lens of How much of this talk is actually doing something? How are we changing or adding new policies that will create action and actually implement change in the climate? 

Someone to be watching: Greta Thunberg. She is a Swedish activist who demands more from those in power. She challenges COP26 by saying that they are not doing enough and calling it a failure. Thunberg organized 25,000 people (family and pet friendly) outside the global climate summit in a #Fridaysforfuture student demonstration urging leaders at COP26 to stop just having discussions and creating more loopholes because it is not making any impact. 

Quoted from an article in the Washington Post: '“It is not a secret that COP26 is a failure,” Thunberg told the crowd at George Square. “It should be obvious that we cannot solve a crisis with the same methods that got us into it in the first place.”'

Thunberg lives what she preaches. From refusing to take airplanes to these climate change conferences around the world to watching what she wears and eats is how she is living the difference. Thunberg models the behavior she demands to see in the world. She is an inspiration to us at Etcetera and we too believe in critically evaluating not only our own methods, but other businesses who aim to preach sustainable fashion.

For example, Pangaia Denim is this new denim made with Himalayan Nettle. What we do know is that creating denim uses a lot of water. So while  making denim with Himalayan Nettle might potentially be more sustainable, we wonder how much water is it using to produce? 

What is currently happening the  UN Climate Change Conference (COP26) in Glasgow, Scotland which is the 26th session of the Conference of the Parties has finally come to an end on Nov 13th and here are the updates: 

-even though diplomats and world leaders negotiated into overtime, they promised to give poorer countries $100 billion to fight climate change 

-and to circle back in 2022 with more promises to cut emissions. 

What could have been monumental the Glasgow Climate Pact could have been historic in pointing out that gas is the most accountable in warming the planet. There was no commitment to cut greenhouse gas emissions by 50% by 2030 and...

It's important because Emissions are currently increasing, and need to be cut by nearly half by 2030 to be consistent with the 1.5-degree goal. 

Our part is being aware of current events as the fashion industry still accounts for about 10% greenhouse gas emissions 

The Global Fashion Agenda found the industry’s emissions are actually set to rise to around 2.7 billion tons a year by 2030, if current measures stay the same and to compare with the Paris Agreement, based on the current trajectory, fashion’s emissions would actually be at double the maximum level required to be in line with the Paris Agreement’s aim to keep global warming to 1.5°C. 

How companies can change now is to be more deforestation-free, conversion-free (meaning natural ecosystems are not destroyed in the process) and produced using regenerative practices. Companies and brands can also work closely with their suppliers to reduce emissions. 

What is currently happening since the  UN Climate Change Conference (COP26) = more brands are increasingly leveraging their influence and engaging in social action campaigns. Consumers are skeptical of such brand activism and sometimes it is seen as "woke washing". Woke Washing is when brands are promoting social issues without taking meaningful action. An example of woke washing is when brands sell expensive t-shirts with feminist messaging while simultaneously maintaining boards and C-Suites that are dominated by men. 

How brands can change= from inside the company AND working with customers and communities to co-create their goals, choices, product lines etc. What this looks like is for-profits, not-for-profits, and social enterprises work together with businesses so that they can hinge together business and societal goals to create change from within the market system. This is seen as "transformative branding". Although socially-focused marketing concepts and campaigns are nothing new, consumers are noticing that solutions have been less than palatable. 

There's two main market-shaping elements within "transformative branding": leadership and collaborative coupling.  Collaborative coupling is implementing this vision throughout the brand by mobilizing stakeholders, including customers, employees, investors, suppliers, governments, communities, and competitors. When leadership and collaborative coupling work together it signals commitment while establishing legitimacy and hopefully creating opportunities for transforming economic, political, and socio-cultural environments. 

A company that is practicing transformative branding well is Patagonia. Yvon Chouinard is framing the brand as a solution to environmental degradation. For example, a recent campaign is called "Buy Less, Demand More" and its new "Worn Wear" venture that promotes a culture of reuse rather than always buying new. If these campaigns and venture weren't enough, on Black Friday, Patagonia made $10 million in sales and donated every cent toward helping save the environment. 

While this is easier said than done and this still remains complex and dynamic the key word of December is "Degrowth". 

"Degrowth" is the word of December because for so long brands communicated in their social responsibility marketing to "buy less" and "wear longer", but now environmental organizations, fashion activisits and some brands are pushing hard for accountability in the industry and some brands are trying to make less product. 

A company that is practicing "degrowth" well is Ralph Lauren as they announced their strategy for 2022 is to make less product. What Ralph Lauren discovered is that when they made less stuff, they were still able to make money because they were maximizing their understanding of sell-through. Their results are less wasted product that had to be downstreamed to outlet stores (and end up eventually as waste). 

Something even small fashion brands can be doing is "nearshoring". This word is courtesy of a McKinsey report that means brands ought to use suppliers that are nearby. For example, something that we changed at Etcetera Streetwear is that we source our supplies nearby rather than getting them shipped halfway around the world in addition to using previously worn clothing and previously owned fabric as the base for all of our capsule collection pieces. 

And a tribute to Virgil Abloh who revolutionized the streetwear industry unfortunately passed November 28th due to cancer.

 He wrote nine days before his death, "Good design has a critical role to play in addressing the problems of today and driving behavioral change, so we can have a positive impact in shaping our future and the future of this planet. My whole premise is to lift up the next generation of designers, innovators, and creative minds from non-typical trajectories".

-from Vogue Business

Etcetera Streetwear aims to not only creatively impact streetwear fashion, but to also make a difference in environmental fashion as it shapes the future of this planet. These thoughts are our own from reading about the fashion industry and the environment and doing some deep thinking and problem solving in our company. 

  What investor to look at?

Mike Cannon-Brookes is the Atlassian co-founder and now an 11% shareholder in Australian energy company called AGL Energy. 

This is imperative because shareholders are able to give more than just money in their investments. They are able to influence companies on circular economy efforts, sustainability and climate change. 

Ceres, a sustainable investment advocacy group, reported the data that other mainstream investors have filed a record 215 climate-related shareholder resolutions this year. This is noteworthy because this has been on a positive incline compared to previous years. 

We encourage other investors to

We believe that if you have the capital and power to, investors should invest in fast fashion companies to influence them in efforts on climate and sustainability. 

What made us curious?

  A friend of mine recently ordered Zara clothing and told me that their packaging has really improved. Replacing the original cardboard box was a recycled paper envelope made us curious to look up their sustainability plan. We saw that they  

Zara's Join Life sustainable statement 

On their website they state that since  they signed the United Nations Global Pact in 2001, their social and environmental objectives have become more urgent. Their efforts since 2001 included the Join Life Program that started sometime between 2010-2015. 

  What is Zara's Join Life program? 

 The Join life program was launched as a standard to label garments that have been made using more sustainable materials and processes. Since then, the Join Life program is working with Green to Pack, a global program where there sole purpose is to make more sustainable packaging.

In 2021, Zara reported that they have surpassed their goal of garments labeled under the  Join Life Program. Their original goal was to have 40% of their garments under the Join Life program and they were able to reach 47%.

Copied from their website they state: 

WE ARE WORKING TO REDUCE OUR IMPACT AND INTEGRATE SUSTAINABILITY IN DAILY DECISION MAKING. THIS INCLUDES OUR ENTIRE VALUE CHAIN: PRODUCT DESIGN, MATERIALS SELECTION, PRODUCTION PROCESSES, LOGISTICS, AND DESIGN AND MANAGEMENT OF OUR WAREHOUSES AND STORES. AND, ONCE THE CUSTOMER NO LONGER NEEDS THE GARMENTS, WE ARE DEVELOPING REUSE AND RECYCLING PROGRAMS WITH THE GOAL OF PROMOTING A CIRCULAR ECONOMY, REDUCING WASTE AND THE CONSUMPTION OF NEW VIRGIN RAW MATERIAL.  ACHIEVING OUR SUSTAINABILITY COMMITMENTS INVOLVES A GREAT CHALLENGE WE CANNOT MEET ALONE. AS SUCH, WE COLLABORATE WITH SUPPLIERS, INTERNATIONAL ORGANIZATIONS, GOVERNMENTS, AND OTHER COMPANIES OF THE SECTOR TO DRIVE REAL CHANGE IN THE INDUSTRY TOGETHER.

M&S approach to sustainability added different business avenues including:

dotte is a resale collective where people can buy, sell, donate, or recycle kids clothing brands. This digital platform is celebrating a partnership with their first major retailer; M&S, which is a major kids clothing street brand in the UK. dotte is the first fully circular peer-to-peer marketplace where parents can buy, sell, donate, and recycle outgrown kids clothing from 16 kids brands, but the most popular brands is now M&S. When you buy M&S clothing on dotte you receive a money voucher to use at M&S clothing online. 

M&S also started working with Hirestreet, UK's leading rental site, where it enables customers to rent M&S clothing. 

 Up for discussion

What do we have in the US that is similar to dotte? I think about how we have the digital platforms for users to sell their own used clothing or accessories on sites such as: Mercari, Poshmark, ThredUP, RealReal, Depop or Vinted.  However, I don't know of one central digital platform where huge retailers will partner with one app and reward the consumer with a money voucher. It's something to consider as we see fast fashion brands reach for sustainability goals by different avenues.  I like the idea of huge retailers partnering with other fashion sustainability organizations instead of trying to invent the wheelhouse themselves- similar to what M&S is doing. Do you think other big retailers in the US will partner with smaller fashion sustainability organizations?  Or do you think major retailers will just plan to do these strategic sustainability efforts  in-house? 

We are excited to mention a local organization called Circular Philadelphia  working to improve the circular economy in Philadelphia, PA by connecting policy makers, businesses, manufacturers, institutions, and the local government to create a circular economy. One of our Etcetera Streetwear colleagues serves on the Textile Task Force of this energized group of local activists. 

We are also thrilled to see New York state legislation being proposed to require large companies to be responsible about their footprint and no longer rely on larger brands and fast fashion companies to "self regulate".  "The Fashion Act" would require that any businesses operating in New York have provide more transparency about their supply chain, disclose the environmental and social impacts of their practices and if they do not comply to this law they could be fined up to 2% of their annual revenue of $250 million or more. The fined money would be given to fight for social justice in the environmental arena. 

As we are growing through the seasons, we also have a new capsule collection in the works! And 25% of proceeds will be going to the OR Foundation, an organization in the US and Ghana dedicated to a developing a more Justice-Led Circular Economy. Inspiring mission!

Forever isn't always desired when it comes to a chemical that will never go away naturally called PFAS: Polyfluoroalkyl and perfluoroalkyl substances. While the Environmental Protection Agency is making plans to regulate the amount of PFAS in take out containers, carpet, furniture, and in the textile industries, we should also be aware that this is in our drinking tap water. 

We should fear PFAs because they are linked to cancer, infertility, and stunted developmental growth. This man-made chemical that is found in nearly everything from cookware, to household cleaners, to take out boxes, to the paint we use in our houses is not only effecting our environment, but is inevitably damaging our bodies. 

The textile industry is full of this in fabrics that are oil, stain, and water repellant. Consumers desire products from furniture to clothes that are water repellant and stain resistant.

 In a report published January 2022, researchers at the nonprofit Toxic-Free Future tested 60 products for PFAS from 10 major retailers. Items included in the study ranged from outdoor apparel to napkins to bedding from major retailers like REI, Walmart, and Target.

A scandalous May 

Effective on June 10th 2022, DWS cheif, Asoka Wohrmann, is resigning after policy raid over greenwashing claims in Germany.  BaFin, a German financial regulator and US Securities and Exchange Commission led an investigation that was prompted from the former DWS executive Desiree Fixler. 'Fixler said that DWS had made misleading statements in its 2020 annual report over claims that more than half the group's $900bn assets were invested using environmental, social and governance criteria' -The Financial Times. 

From this scandal, now the ESG industry is facing criticisms including the methods by which assets are assessed. This scenario does make us ponder, how much of this is also going on in the fashion and textile industry? 

A barter system with clothes

Last month, our founder was able to volunteer with Circular Philadelphia during their Swap event. This is where people can bring in a certain amount of items and just swap it with other people.  

We see businesses such as Shein, a fast fashion business continue to grow regardless of how highly scrutinized they are.  Shein is facing lawsuits in safety standards in clothing and workplace,  copyright infringement, unpleasant workplace, and their disturbing offensive items they sell.  They also claim to have a new line called evoluSHEIN using responsibly sourced materials, but when critics ask their director of sustainability, "how?" there has been no concrete response yet.  

What would it look like if we set up a fast fashion swap in different cities? 

On a positive note

A new office called the Office of Environmental Justice within the Department of Health and Human Services  was created to address climate-related health issues affecting poor and marginalized Americans. They will be responsible for developing broader environmental health strategies and coordinating its annual environmental justice reports. It's nice to see the Federal government confronting environmental injustice issues. 

Some thoughts on going local

So while we are waiting for COP27, the next U.N. climate conference in November, we are still  not meeting the COP26 Paris agreement of limiting the Earth's warming to 2 degrees Celsius since the late 1800s. We see a lack of action steps taken except in a few countries and are grateful to be part of local efforts working with Circular Philadelphia. 

The issues of climate health and consumption are on our minds these days. Perhaps we need to seriously consider the Slow Fashion movement and encourage consumers to be activists embracing and marketing this wise model for the fashion industry. The war in Ukraine has added to concerns because the cost of energy and the need for a move to green energy is more directly impacting our daily lives. We cannot hide from it anymore.

And while online shopping might be convenient to the consumer, people need to consider how it's harmful to the environment with the pollution, packaging, plastics, and traditional energy involved in every transaction. And although some companies promise  greener practices, it will not be an overnight transformation and consumers will likely absorb that additional cost.  Change can be complicated and it can be painful. Companies like Amazon perhaps add to convenience, but hurt the environment more than help at this stage.  The verdict is still out as they try to correct some of their obvious contributions to the climate problem.

What's been inspiring us 

Delivery + Packaging Solutions

 We are inspired by retailers like the UK's M&S with their comprehensive sustainability pledge and action planning, but more locally we are inspired by a new delivery service called The Rounds, a local zero-waste delivery subscription services offering  anything from pantry products, to pet goods, to baby supplies and more! This innovative delivery service has scaled to Washington D.C. and Miami!  

The First carbon-neutral runway show

 As reported in The Wall Street Journal, Gabriela Hearst created the first carbon-neutral runway show for her clothing collection that is luxurious yet non-wasteful by using existing fabrics and materials. The models who were sourced locally did not use any blow dryers, straighteners or curling irons. The supply chain shipping was managed by boat rather than air freight, and all of the packing is biodegradable and compostable. 

 The aisles and pews were borrowed from her home and office and there was a carbon-offset fund for the energy-related production costs that were donated to the Hifadhi-Livelihoods Project in Kenya. We are motivated by this practical and tangible response to the climate crisis caused in part by the textile industry!

What we can do at Etcetera

We could help reduce carbon blueprint by prioritizing our marketing efforts and strategies locally. 

We could scale our business using a sort of three tiered plan - Creative Climate Coop - perhaps we can create Etcetera Hubs in different regions where we source employees and materials to work under Etcetera Streetwear and to create merchandise and fulfill orders regionally in these locations like the spoke of a wheel to reduce shipping for Etcetera Streetwear. This will help reduce our carbon footprint and might also offset some costs. The products would only be available in their respective region creating some additional cache in limited supply collections and capsule selectivity by region region.  As we utilize the large supply of discarded textiles by upcycling existing garments we must also creatively resolve our impact on the planet as we are also complicit in some stages of our business model.

How else can Etcetera Streetwear be kept accountable?